# Welcome {% hint style="info" %} Please bear with us as we move functionality from our main site to this site. You can contact us on Discord or via our form above. {% endhint %} > This is the official Voidbox Industries documentation site that will soon serve as our main website since we've moved all sales to Amazon. This will allow us to focus more on the Crowd Supply campaign for the PwrTool 500. > > *Chloe Madison - Nov 2024* ## Current Products
PicNameDescriptionLinks

FLIP_C3

Our ESP32 dev board with a 60v max in buck converter for use on 12-48v batteries. Designed for ESPHome and Home Assistant.Buy on Amazon / Documentation

USB-C for AppleTV

A full modkit including tools to cleanly replace the AC PSU in an AppleTV 4k (2022) with a 5v USB-C port.Buy on Amazon / Documentation

PwrTool 500

A 500 amp DC battery monitor / smart shunt for Home Assistant. Based on FLIP_C3 using ESPHome. Launching soon on Crowd Supply
## About VDBX or "Voidbox Industries" is currently focused on designing hardware for use with Home Assistant in off-grid, battery powered setups. Our hardware lineup for 2023 is focused on the FLIP-C3 node platform for creating smart devices on off-grid and battery powered systems. The project takes a priority with integrating into Home Assistant via the ESPHome firmware, but can run anything an ESP32-C3 can. Chloe Madison, resident designer and founder currently lives full time in a converted "shorty" school bus that she's constantly still working on. ## Support We make a lot of things that we sell, we also make a lot that is solely to be shared online freely... in either case, we provide all source files so you can hack or make these things yourself. The best way to support our work is to buy our products via our stores on Amazon, ~~Tindie, and our website~~. You may also buy parts and products via our affiliate links. If you'd like to show additional or alternate support, you can support any of our makers directly: * Chloe Madison - @clomads - [Patreon](https://www.patreon.com/clomads) * More soon (hopefully) ## Message from Chloe Voidbox Industries is yet another one of my brands making sure I don't have to do a bland 9-5 and instead can rely on my art. It's not always worth it, but making art is a compulsion for me and I can't imagine doing anything else (aside from the dopamine rabbit holes). Also I'm autistic.... have fun with that. In 2017, while becoming disillusioned with the tech industry, I decided to dive deeper into a maker hobby most people would have already assumed I had years of experience with. Starting with mold making, concrete pouring and mentally mapping basic material science; all while learning to 3D model and design circuits. I've always been a designer first ... just with a serious interest in doing so with technology. Going down this road opened my eyes to what I was capable of as an artist. When COVID hit, I was focused on making concrete [knicknacks](/concrete/concrete-card-holder) and my sales immediately dried up, but a few months later, my unemployment finally went thru and I decided to make some changes. At the time I was living in a van and had a small private art studio in Berkeley amongst a shared artist warehouse. I realized this wasn't tenable long-term and I wanted to consolidate even more so that I wouldn't run into a situation where not being able to pay rent would turn to dire circumstances. I found my bus in July 2020 and immediately started building and also moved in while it was still very much a prototype. Over the next few years, I worked on building it closer and closer to my vision, while I prepped to get back to work as the world decided that COVID doesn't exist anymore. I spent a significant amount of this time dealing with physical and mental health issues, but thankfully do have access to medical care. Unfortunately this means I have to put my concrete work on hold until I have space to make that kind of mess again. I knew this was necessary when I moved everything into the bus, so I'm not upset by it despite missing it. In 2023 I started refining some of my findings from building my bus and integrating Home Assistant into an off-grid application and released the FLIP\_C3 and the end of that year. In June of 2024 I got the PwrTool 500 pre-launched on Crowd Supply with the official lauch coming around Jan 2025. I'm starting to become seen by my peers which feels really amazing. I hope to someday have the opportunity to turn Voidbox into a worker co-op that manufactures & retails open hardware for other makers and artists, especially under-represented folks. It may just be me right now, but I use "we" optimistically throughout these docs. *@clomads - Chloe Madison* ## Affiliate Marketing We are currently a part of the affiliate programs for Amazon and AliExpress with the potential for others. Any links to those platforms are likely to contain our affiliate code which tells them that we sent you. Your price doesn't change, but we may get a small kickback from your order for sending you over. # FLIP\_C3 An ESP32-C3 with a 60v tolerant 5v/2A buck converter & other special sauce. {% hint style="success" %} v1.1 is fully compatible with 60v DC input with the major change being the addition of a bi-directional TVS diode on the input. This transient suppression will enhance stability across the entire voltage range and generally strengthen the input side. It will reduce or eliminate failures from hot socketing in daughterboards and protect against damage from intermittently failing circuits, frayed wires, and shorts. High-vibration environments may find use, but ultimate endurance has yet to be tested. {% endhint %} {% hint style="danger" %} 1.0.x versions and earlier are susceptible to transients when connected live (including switching) to over \~50v causing permanent damage to the buck converter. Allow your battery to discharge before connecting. You may install a TVS diode in paralell with one of the input capacitors or use a pre-charge resistor to reduce these transients. {% endhint %} ## Summary The first development board for the FLIP platform is an ESP32-C3 with a 60v tolerant buck converter meant for use with 12-48v battery systems. It is designed for use with ESPHome and Home Assistant, but can be flashed with other popular firmwares such as TASMOTA and WLED. ## Specs & Features * On-board 5v/2A buck-converter tolerant **up to 60v DC input** * **V1.1 -** Full 60V input tolerance with transient suppression * **v0.x.x - v1.0.x** - 60v absolute max, do not live connect over 50v * Connect to battery when it is below 50v * Install TVS in parallel with input capacitor * Use a low value resistor to pre-charge circuit (pro move) * Low-profile press-in wire connector for DC input * 24-16AWG Solid * 22-18AWG Stranded - Ferrules are suggested * 2x2P 2.54mm pass-through power header for stacking * Push release spring mechanism * **ESP32-C3** designed for ESPHome and Home Assistant. * **USB-C** input for alt power and programming * Reverse current protection from DC input via diode * No data connection while powered by DC * LEDs on-board * **WS2812B RGB** - `GPIO8` * Digital output available on header as `L8` to drive short runs * Red Status LED - `GPIO10` * UART and I2C on **Qwiic/Stemma QT** compatible headers (SH 1.0-4P) * I2C: `SCL0/SDA1` * UART: `RX20/TX21` * Boot Button `GPIO9` * Reset Button `ENABLE` ### ESP32-C3 The ESP32-C3 is considered a market replacement for the ESP8266 while bringing some features from the ESP32. It's a RISC-V platform with Wifi & Bluetooth plus support for Ethernet PHYs including the LAN8720 and W5500. Our early planned product line should be more than covered by the capabilities of the C3... the biggest concern being limited to one I2C bus, but we'll cross that bridge when we come to it. ## Pinout

Pinout of the FLIP_C3 - Ignore call-out on v 1.1

Pin LabelGPIONotes
5v5V/2A from buck converter
3v33.3V/1A from linear regulator
SDA11GPIO1 - Used as SDA on StemmaQT/Qwiic Connector and FLIP header compatible daughterboards
SCL00GPIO0 - Used as SCL on StemmaQT/Qwiic Connector and FLIP header compatible daughterboards
RX2020Hardware UART RX - Reassignable
TX2121Hardware UART TX - Reassignable
LED1010Not connected to header pin
LED88**Connected to header via DOUT of onboard WS2812 for level shifting
9/BOOT9Hold button on boot to force bootloader mode - available as GPIO or on-board button in software
RESETENPulls EN pin low while pressed
2 - 72-7GPIO Pins, check ESP32-C3-MINI-1 docs for special functions
## License & Files The FLIP\_C3 is offered as open source under the [Creative Commons 4.0 Attribution Share-Alike License](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/) (CC 4.0 BY-SA) ### PCB Original design was created in EasyEDA Pro and is available to download for yourself here. Recent versions of KiCAD should be able to import this, but you'll need to connect your own component libraries. {% file src="/files/qdUaRmARHATPkIwXemEi" %} EasyEDA Pro File - v1.1 - Exported 2024.10.24 {% endfile %} ### 3D Model EasyEDA provides a STEP file of the board which we bring into Onshape, align a vector of the silkscreen, and extrude it slightly. No bottom silkscreen at the moment. Download most formats from Onshape link: {% embed url="" %} Onshape 3D Model - 23.08 / 23.09 / 24.01 {% endembed %} # Home Assistant Get Started Quickly ## BLE Improv If you have the Bluetooth integration active in Home Assistant, you may be able to configure your FLIP\_C3's Wifi credentials directly. Hit the blue button below to check your integrations page. ## WiFi Your FLIP\_C3 will also create a Wifi access point as a backup. ``` network: flip-c3-xxxx pass: GenericPassword ``` It should automatically present you page to set your WiFi credentials, but if not, visit in your browser. Check your Home Assistant notifications or Integrations page to adopt your FLIP\_C3 as an ESPHome device. [![Open your Home Assistant instance and show your integrations.](https://my.home-assistant.io/badges/integrations.svg)](https://my.home-assistant.io/redirect/integrations/) ## ESPHome It may behoove you to adopt into [ESPHome](/product/flip_c3/esphome) and add your additional configuration before adopting into Home Assistant. Until you adopt into ESPHome, you will only have access to the following entities: * 1x RGB LED * 1x Red Status LED * BOOT Button on GPIO9 * Reboot Button * Hours Counter\* (some installs) * FLIP\_C3 Internal Temperature If you change the friendly name or hostname in ESPHome, you may need to delete and re-adopt the device into Home Assistant for these changes to be seen. # ESPHome [Wifi Instructions](/product/flip_c3/home-assistant) ## USB Recover If you need to reinstall the base firmware, we've set up an easy installer on our main website. This will allow you to use Chrome or Edge to install it via a USB-C cable. Current versions **cannot** be connected via USB-C while powered via the buck converter. ### [www.vdbx.io](https://www.vdbx.io) ### Troubleshooting You may need to hold the BOOT button as you connect the USB cable. Alternatively you can hold the BOOT button while you press and release the RESET button if the FLIP\_C3 is already connected via USB-C. Hold the BOOT button for a couple seconds after the device is connected to your computer and then proceed with the installation above. Once complete, power cycle the FLIP-C3 with the RESET button or disconnecting and reconnecting the cable. You can also use this time to swap to a DC power source via the 2P spring connector. ## Adopt In ESPHome Once you've followed the steps to connect your FLIP\_C3 to Wifi, you should see it in the ESPHome dashboard available to be adopted. Adopting into ESPHome will generate a base YAML that references our YAML file on Github as an external package with the following lines: {% hint style="warning" %} 24.09 - Our config files were moved into a separate repo, please change your existing package URL to the following for the latest updates. {% endhint %} ```yaml packages: vdbxio.FLIP-C3: github://vdbxio/esphome-configs/flip-c3.yaml ``` This includes references to all the basics of the hardware and more. This includes the onboard WS2812, the red status LED, the Boot Button on GPIO9 and I2C is defined at id: `bus_a` You can add ESPHome YAML to the end of this to get started quickly. ## YAML Reference The following are snippets to properly interact with FLIP\_C3 hardware in ESPHome Direct reference to the YAML we ship with is available on Github: - Active repo as of 24.09 We're still working on organizing and modularization. Feel free to help out. There's a lot more in there than referenced here. ### Board Definition If you like, you can easily start a blank ESPHome device based on the ESP32-C3 using `esp32-c3-devkitm-1` board type. This is default in ESPHome for C3 based boards and we use chip level pin numbers on our silkscreen. ```yaml esphome: name: bare-minimum friendly_name: Bare Minimum esp32: board: esp32-c3-devkitm-1 framework: type: arduino ``` ### Boot Button The `BOOT` button is available in software on `GPIO9` after boot. If held during boot, FLIP\_C3 will be put into bootloader/flash mode. ```yaml binary_sensor: - platform: gpio name: Boot Button pin: number: 9 inverted: True mode: input: True pullup: True ``` ### WS2812 ```yaml light: - platform: esp32_rmt_led_strip id: onboard_rgb rgb_order: GRB chipset: ws2812 pin: 8 restore_mode: RESTORE_AND_OFF num_leds: 1 name: "RGB LED" ``` ### Status LED ```yaml light: - platform: status_led name: "Status LED" id: status_led pin: 10 ``` # WLED ## Get started with WLED WLED is designed for running addressable LEDs on ESP32 based devices and the FLIP\_C3 is a great board for running it. **Use the installer at** [**install.wled.me**](https://install.wled.me/) **->** ### SETUP **Under LED Settings:** Set **GPIO8** noted as **L8** on the FLIP\_C3 to use the onboard WS2812 as a level shifter. Increase your LED count by 1 to include this pixel. If you are close enough to your first pixel, you may be able to get a stable output from any other pin. Using anything but WS281x pixels on L8 may cause unexpected results. Set **GPIO9** as the button if you want to use the BOOT button on the face of the FLIP\_C3 **In the main interface** Use segments to separate onboard WS2812 from the rest of your strip. **Notes:** If using 5v LEDs with the on-board buck converter make sure not to exceed the 2A/10w current rating which is about 100 LEDs at full brightness. The FLIP\_C3 will get extremely hot over 1A. It should be able to maintain up to 2A in open air, but consider cooling when installing in an enclosure. Do not touch on-board components when in operation. # History & Notes ## Notes Versions below v1.0 have differences in pin layout especially the 2P header for the DC input so there are compatibility issues with those variants and any compatible PCBs, notably the PwrTool which was designed in paralell. It is best to match batch numbers if pairing these boards sourced from us. ## Changelog * 24.07 - V1.1 - * Add TVS diode to input - full 60v input transient suppresion * Move LED10 further from keepout zone - it has the room * Tweak inductor position lower * 23.12.10 - Prep for early 2024 production * Moved C14 closer to EN pin - v1.0.1 * Research potential replacements for L1 based on price and availability * 23.08.23 - Notable changes since last update * Original DC spring connector only grabbed the tip of standard length ferrules making solid core wire the only real option * second option was too small & original is now discontinued - 0.9.5 is on the way with third option * Instead of presenting GPIO8 directly to the pin header which is used for the onboard WS2812b, we now route the D-OUT from the on-board WS2182b to an "L8" pin so it be used as a level shifter for short runs. * 23.04.30 - Switching Buck Regulator * LMR16020 - tested to work from 5 to 58v with only FLIP-C3 as load * higher voltages seeing upwards of 0.6v wobble on output * output is up to 0.7v higher at 58v input vs 5v input * Missed output ground on test board and poor placement of VREF * 23.04.18 - LDO circuitry is not going to work, back to the drawing board. * Design and order tester for switching buck * Remove LDO circuitry from FLIP-C3 and ~~reconsider footprint size~~. ## Version History 1.0.3 - Move C14 closer to EN - replace L1 due to availability & price 1.0.0 - First small production run 0.9.5 - Replace DC Spring Connector 0.9.4 - Reduce length, change DC spring connector, replace GPIO8 with LED-OUT 8 0.9.1 - First unit with LMR16020 0.9.0 - LDO Circuit was a bad idea, EN pin not pulled-up # BOM Alternates Major parts and alternatives for the FLIP\_C3 The retail version of the FLIP\_C3 is currently manufactured by JLCPCB using their parts library. While it is said that JLCPCB uses their sister company LCSC for parts, the two companies usually have different stock. This is a living document of potential alternates for major parts including those used in production or considered for production. This document can be used in case of stock declines or discontinuation of parts. Basic passives like resistors and capacitors may not be included as this is intended for major functional parts and those parts can be easily replaced with a simple search when using the BOM directly from the EasyEDA files. ## I2C & UART Connectors For Qwiic and Stemma QT compatibility we use JST-SH1.0 connectors based on `SM04B-SRSS-TB(LF)(SN)` via reference document from [Sparkfun](https://www.sparkfun.com/qwiic#faqs) A second connector is used to connect to the RX/TX lines on GPIO 20/21 alongside GND & 3v3 in the same order as the I2C connections on GPIO 1/0 - See [PINOUT](/product/flip_c3#pinout)
LCSCJLCPCBProductionPriceNotesDatasheet
C145956C145956up to 1.0.00.0591Discontinued on JLCPCB/files/2bJNue1RonYStKoPIUj2
C3029343C30293430.0498thicker walls, better footprint?/files/bgL4KtCGpngeIXGyv3Kd
C7430446C74304460.0393thicker walls, better footprint?/files/yaxxCOlQoya2XjuUTb8a
C160404C1604040.123JST original spec/files/pOIiPUQhjzkxANYlDna3
## ESP32-C3 There are two variants of the ESP32-C3-MINI-1 module. The [H4 variant](https://jlcpcb.com/partdetail/EspressifSystems-ESP32_C3_MINI_1H4/C2934569) has a higher temp tolerance than the [base model N4](https://jlcpcb.com/partdetail/EspressifSystems-ESP32_C3_MINI_1N4/C2838502). We've focused on using the H4 variant, but supply chain issues could lead to us using the N4 model in some production runs. # FLIP Platform A platform to create IOT devices for 12-48v battery systems.

Marketing render of the FLIP-C3 as first prototype boards are ordered. 23.04.04

{% hint style="info" %} Some of this is focued on the FLIP\_C3 specifically and will generalize over time. Header footprint is locked as of v1 and mounting hole is locked as of v1.1 {% endhint %} ## Design Philosophy The FLIP platform is a set of standards between circuit designs with the intention of easy install within 12-48v lithium battery systems. It designed as a modular system to create IOT hardware for modern open-source automation systems. The platform will consist of mainboards which have processing and network capabilities and the modules which will provide or interface with switches, lighting, sensors, relays, dimmers, etc. The mainboards should be able to power themselves and basic modules from the an on-board buck regulator. Additional power modules can be placed in parallel with the base moule built into the mainboard. I2C should be considered a high-priority interconnect due to its capability for easy expansion and daisy-chaining. In as many situations as possible, modules should be able to function as either tethered I2C device or with a FLIP mainboard installed. A standalone device (mainboard with module) should be able to connect to it's mainboardless version of itself via the Qwiic & Stemma QT compatible connector. In some cases, smaller boards could stack infinitely, limited only by the available I2C addresses. We've currently coined these smaller boards as *backpacks*. * Power modules should be tolerant to 60v DC input which covers up to 16s Lifepo4 systems. * 5v with at least 1A of available power without extra cooling * Future should offer higher voltage ranges for electric * 60v board to board header for distribution * USB-C with 5v buck converter * Standardized 2.54mm dual header layout between boards * Passthrough stacking pin/socket headers included * Stemma QT & Qwiic compatible SH 1.0 connectors * I2C & UART * Home Assistant as target platform * ESP32 for Wifi and Ethernet * ESPHome Firmware * Future Targets * RP2040 * EBYTE Modules for Zigbee * PTVO Firmware? * Thread/Matter * Must have simple device provision like ESPHome ## Software You will always be able to write whatever code want to a FLIP device, but our priority is ESPHome due to its ease of use with beginners. Technically minded artists, home automation enthusiasts, and other makers who struggle with will likely find it easier, especially if they have experience with somthing like HTML/CSS. ESPHome is backed by the Open Home Foundation started by Home Assistant/Nabu Casa. WLED is a high priority platform, but we will likely work within the bounds of existing functionality. Its development is progressing steadily and there is extreme interest in WLED specific features in hardware. TASMOTA is very popular, and we look forward to seeing any work you do with it. At the moment, we are not going to be focusing any efforts on this platform. ## Possible or Realized Products based on FLIP * Switch Panel (Unnamed) * PwrTool Family * Large main system shunt * Small Handheld coulometer with XT60, PP45, screw-in, etc. connection options * Branch Manager - Smart power distribution panel * 8x High power p-channel mosfets * Lighting Director - PWM Mosfet controller for DC lighting devices. * Backpacks - should be the same size as the FLIP itself. * PWM mosfet 4x via direct connection to GPIO * RS485 to TTL for Solar Chargers * 3A+ Switching power supply * 16020 has a 16030 pin compatible 3A version but will require external component selection. Good for LED control board? * RGB Addressable LED control (with DC buck?) # Switching Buck Regulators AKA Project DOE ## Summary Attempt to find a balance of price and size for a small 1-3A buck converter capable of up to 60V input. This came about when looking at postage stamp or smaller buck converters on AliExpress where input voltage is all over the place and not a headline feature apparently. I would like to have a standardized power supply that can work within most common battery systems without having to sort through 100s of pages of AliExpress to find the one you need. The best one I've found on AliExpress is based on the MP4560DN which handles up to 60v and provides 2A continuous. LCSC does not list it and it is and extended part for JLCPCB. It is also short of my requirements. ## Research Before attempting the LDO experiment, I had done several hours of research on DC switching regulators within the 60v req and landed on creating 3 schematics based on the datasheet suggestions for the following ICs: * LMR16020 * as low as $0.55 at 100 qty * components are compact * seems to fit in LDO footprint of FLIP-C3 * LMR36015 * smallest footprint * $5 each until 200 units then $2 ea * no diode necessary * TX4414 * $0.24 @ 5u / $0.17 @ 150u * Large external components per datasheet * will need engineering to reduce size. ### History Research started by looking at the cheapest chips on LCSC and making schematics from what the datasheet suggested. Tho I seem to have a very expensive IC in my list and I don't remember why. I have also scoured TI's website while comparing it to LCSC's list, but I was moving on to the LDO experiment at this point. When I came back I already had 3 schematics and board layouts to pick from. ## Future Even if we chose an IC suitable to launch the FLIP-C3 and the products it lives in, I intend to continue researching ICs to improve future revisions and maybe create a "Booster Pack" in case certain stackups of PCBs might need more power. A 3-5A converter with an output for addressable LEDs might be a great idea. We could also have a switch to swap between 5v and 12v I'm hoping documentation improves as we test individual buck ICs. ## LMR16020 - Active Choice * 4.3 V to 60 V Input Range * 2A Continuous Output Current * Alternate 3A version - LMR16030 * Ultra-low 40 µA Operating Quiescent Current {% embed url="" %} Product Page on TI.com {% endembed %} * ### Datasheet {% embed url="" %} # 23.04 - First Batch Testing LDO idea doesn't work. ## Hindsight - 23.08 For those in the same situation I was before starting this project, a linear regulator keeps current the same on the input and output so any excess power is disipated as heat. This makes them unsuitable for large voltage drops at anything more than a few milliamps. Below are notes of my experience of utter failure thinking an LDO would work for this application. ## Summary For the initial design of the FLIP-C3, an LDO from Seward Electronics was chosen due to its max suggested input voltage of 60v. The SE8650X2-HF has a current limit of 200ma so it was determined that four(4) of them be used in parallel considering the potential needs of the ESP32-C3, a WS2812B LED, a red LED plus some overhead. The initial design duplicates the suggested circuitry for each LDO, so each input has a 1uF ceramic capacitor to ground while each output has a 10uF capacitor to ground. ## Initial Results The first batch of 10 arrived in early April and testing began with USB connectivity and the ESP32-C3's ability to run code. Aside from a missing pull-up resistor on the ENABLE pin, everything seems ok here. Upon testing the DC input component, it was placed on a bench power supply (Riden RD6018) at about 9v which is near the low end of acceptable input voltages for the array. It behaved normally for several hours. When raising the voltage I noticed extreme heat from both the ESP32 but especially the array of LDOs... in-fact too hot to touch. Going further seemed to elicit a thermal shutdown effect. ### Voltage Effect With an enabled ESP32-C3 running ESPHome and sending the following values to Home Assistant over API: * 5v rail voltage * 3v3 rail voltage * Internal ESP32-C3 Temperature * Normal temperature range on USB is around 40-50°C * Red LED was on during testing * 12v input \~ 60°C * 14v input \~ 70°C * 16v input \~ 78°C * 0.47-0.79w * 18v input \~78°C * 0.53-0.89w * 20v input \~ 78°C * 0.39 - 0.99w * Starts rebooting on its own, temps drop * 19v input stable until attempted OTA update ## 23.04.18 Thanks to Arya for talking me through a good portion of this troubleshooting. ## No-Load One board with the ESP32-C3 disabled was able to go up to 60v with minimal heat... what I would describe as "not cold." The 3v3 LDO was still connected and both put out their respective 5v and 3.3v at arbitrary input voltages up to the max. ## Static Load A 100ohm 1/4w resistor was placed on the 5v rail. It should be a 50ma load, but it was shown as 0.02a on the Riden bench supply. This current is consistent through changing voltage, by the time we reach 40v, we're dumping almost 2 watts into the LDO to dissipate as heat. This is the cutoff where the output voltage started to breakdown. # USB-C Modkit for Apple TV 2022 Power your Apple TV with USB-C Illustrated installation instructions are available on [vdbx.io](https://www.vdbx.io/product/usb-c-modkit-for-appletv-2022) {% hint style="info" %} **For 2022 / "3rd Gen" Apple TV 4k ONLY.** Works with both ethernet and Wifi variants. Model numbers A2737 and A2843 as defined here: {% endhint %} ## Tools Note {% hint style="info" %} Torx T7 and T5 are used by Apple, but we've noticed a T6 *should* manage to get both. **We've included a T6 allen-key with your kit.** {% endhint %} ## Included in kit: * 1x Modkit PCB with Linear Regulator * 3x Guitar picks to open case * T6 Allen key to remove power supply & power connector * Connector shroud - `3D Printed` * Insulating spacer - `3D Printed` * 2x M2.5x8mm Screws with T6 head * Quick Start Card ## Summary The AppleTV seems to have always been the only TV streaming box that isn't powered by a USB cable. This mod kit changes that, keeping a clean unmodified look. Grab any USB-C cable and any charger that can provide about 7 watts or more. ## Opening the Apple TV Use the included guitar picks to open the Apple TV by inserting them into the seam near the bottom edge to release some clips. This can be tricky if you aren't used to it as it is nearly right on the corner and very well hidden. 1. There is a slight lip inward and then it goes straight up. 2. There are three clips on each edge with the side clips about 5mm in from the corner radius 3. The goal is all three clips on 3 sides 4. No need to go around the corners. ## Installation 1. Remove the AC power supply 1. 4 GND + 1 PWR corner screws `TORX T7` 2. 2 screws for power connector `TORX T5` 2. Place the shroud in the power plug opening, 1. It *should* snap in, it might not 2. Holding it in place for a bit with the warmth of your hand may help. 3. The next step might thank you 3. Pre-assemble the mod kit: 1. The two holes in the spacer are a bit smaller than the included M2.5 screws 2. Use this to your advantage to attach the spacer to the circuit board as shown in \[DIAGRAM] 3. The screw should go through the top of circuit board and into the spacer 4. The spacer is symmetrical and can be installed in any direction 4. With the text up and 3d print down, align the USB-C port with the hole in the shroud we just put in. 5. You can then lay the board flat, avoiding the silver shielding 1. Align the screw at the tip of the board with the inner of the two screw holes that are near each other. 6. Fasten the two M2.5 screws until snug 7. Plug in any USB-C cable and charger to test 8. Replace cover. ## Design Files Circuit boards were designed in EasyEDA Pro and are available to fork via OSHWLab: {% embed url="" %} 3D models were designed in Fusion 360 (not parametric) {% file src="/files/jBUTqUN48t82aMXYxhCn" %} ddddd {% endfile %} ## Mesh files for Printing {% file src="/files/h3IUxn8gIbpRaQd3xp8c" %} {% file src="/files/PX7mkch7FLv7zJV3Zvzf" %} ## Change Log 24.06 * Combined external LDO circuit into main board * Extended ground plane to get final smoothing cap closer to output * Add bottom GND plane and add stitching vias * Remove unused secondary GND screw mount 23.12.11 * Diode removed from design * Submitted second batch to use with LDO boards still in stock d23.05 * LDO add-on board works and will be used to adapt the first batch for retail production * Re-design with LDO circuit on-board if first batch sells-out 23.04.10 * Tested with 5.1v direct from USB, would not boot. Recovered when given its average 4.7v ish. * OE PSU was 4.3v, but Diode does about 4.7v and is not super stable based on current draw. * LDO add-on board designed and ordered. v1.0 - First run in testing * Works but some questionable behavior - unable to attribute to mod kit * voltage is all over the place with diode used... test raw VUSB and optionally test an LDO * would love to test max voltage, but that would require breaking my only Apple TV # Installation READ THIS PAGE IN LIGHT MODE FOR NOW, SORRY ### **Tools Note** Torx T7 and T5 are used by Apple, but we've noticed a T6 should manage to get both. **We've included a T6 allen-key with your kit.** ‍ ### **Included in kit:** * The Modkit PCB with linear voltage regulator * 3x Guitar picks to open case * T6 Allen key to remove power supply & power connector * 3D Printed shroud for power connector opening * 3D Printed spacer/insulator * 2x M2.5x8mm Screws * Quick Start Card ### Summary The AppleTV seems to have always been the only TV streaming box that isn't powered by a USB cable. This mod kit changes that, keeping a clean unmodified look. Grab any USB-C cable and any charger that can provide about 7 watts or more. ### Opening the Apple TV Use the included guitar picks to open the AppleTV by inserting them into the seam near the bottom edge to release some clips. This can be tricky if you aren't used to it as it is nearly right on the corner and very well hidden. * There is a slight lip inward and then it goes straight up. * There are three clips on each edge with the side clips about 5mm in from the corner radius * The goal is all three clips on 3 sides * No need to go around the corners.
### Remove PSU and Power Connector There are 5 T7 screws around the PSU and 2 T5 in the power connector. The included T6 allen key has been tested to fit both, but may be a tight fit in the T5 screws. Remove these screws and discard the PSU and connector. You may choose to keep these items in a safe place in case you choose to revert this mod.
### Install the Modkit 1\) In the small bag remove the plastic shroud and place it in the opening where the original power connector was. It should snap in or at least stay in place enough for the next step which will lock it in. 2\) Pre-assemble the remaining items of the kit as shown in the image below. The holes in the insulator/spacer are slightly smaller than the included M2.5x8mm screws so the whole assembly can be placed together without fumbling. The screws should go through the text side of the circuit board and into the insulators. 3\) Align the USB-C port in the opening of the shroud from Step 1 and then lower the opposite side towards the screw holes left over from removing the PSU. As shown in the image below, you want to use the two inner screw holes and not the very far one.
# PwrTool 500 500A Smart Shunt for Home Assistant

PwrTool Hardware as of Dec 2023 (Some info out of date)

{% hint style="info" %} We've recently started using this ESPHome component and thank the author for the work they've done. {% endhint %} {% hint style="success" %} 24.04.10 - We've been accepted to do a crowdfunding campaign with Crowd Supply. More details coming soon - expect updated docs as we lock in final details. {% endhint %} ## Working Manual We've started getting hardware into the hands of reviewers and testers. This manual, while incomplete, will get you going. {% file src="/files/q5W0EUTQ6zV6M7qvPxgl" %} ## Overview A 500 amp smart shunt for DC power systems up to 60v. It is based on our FLIP-C3 mainboard and power center running ESPHome for seamless integration with Home Assistant out of the box. An on board 45w NPN MOSFET can power fans, LED strips, or control external relays based on automations in Home Assistant. Also keep an eye on the ambient temp/humidity of your control box with the onboard sensor and catch potential issues with the on-die temp sensor of the analog-to-digital converter IC. PwrTool 500 is fully open, this is your hardware and it is fully hackable. Extend it further with ESPHome, Tasmota or your own custom Arduino or ESP-IDF code. The on-board buck converter provides a total power budget of 10w for all of the activities. Make the PwrTool the brains of your power cabinet. ## Features * Hot or Cold Side use * Selectable by twisting jumper position * Polarity and TVS protection * 6-60VDC - Compatible with any lithium or lead-acid system * Bi-directional current sensing up to 500A(300A contstant) * INA238 16-bit ADC with on-die temp facing shunt * SHTC3 Temperature & Humidity Sensor for environmental monitoring * RGB LED & Red Status LED * `CTRL-` Connection for external control via NPN MOSFET ## Specifications * FLIP\_C3 Mainboard * BLE 5.0 & Wifi b/g/n * 5v2A (10w) buck converter * ESP32-C3 * Internal temp sensor * GPIO Components * Red "Status" LED - GPIO 10 * WS2812 NeoPixel - GPIO 8 * Level-shifted output on header as L8 * User/Boot Switch - GPIO 9 * Reset Switch - EN Pin * i2C Bus * SCL - GPIO 1 * SDA - GPIO 0 * Addresses * INA238 - 0x40 * changeable with on-board DIP switch * SHTC3 - 0x70 ## Open Hardware The PwrTool 500 is open source and files are provided under CC4.0-BY-SA ### EasyEDA Pro Schematic, Board, & BOM are originally created in EasyEDA pro. Also see [FLIP\_C3](/product/flip_c3#license-and-files) files. {% file src="/files/R8h8x1G6RpeSCpRlFSnn" %} EasyEDA Pro file {% endfile %} ### 3D Models coming soon ## Open Software ### ESPHome We are building out a modular set of configuration files for our FLIP\_C3 platform and the products it powers. They are currently available on github here: # Installation How to install the PwrTool 500 {% hint style="info" %} This is an extreme work in progress. Please be patient and feel free to ask any questions in our discord. {% endhint %} There are 3 quick steps to get going with the PwrTool 500 1. Wiring 2. Connect to Wi-Fi 3. Adopt in Home Assistant 4. [Adopt into ESPHome ](/product/flip_c3/esphome)`optional` ## Wiring Example The basic installation of the PwrTool 500 puts it inline with the negative terminal of your battery and it's loads/chargers. Use properly sized cables for the devices you intend to connect.
## Hot or Cold // High or Low // Positive or Negative Most shunts of its type are "low-" or "cold-" side only, meaning the shunt itself is inserted in the ground path of your system. In some circumstances it may be difficult to intercept the ground path in a way that produces accurate results so we've built in an option to switch the PwrTool 500's polarity. The "hot-" or "high-" side mode will allow you to intersect the positive line to your load or battery. **This should be selected before wiring** and is factory set to Cold. Do not use a metal object to remove the jumper. ### Delta Readings as a Battery Monitor In this configuration, current sensing will only be that which flows into and out of the battery. Reading will be the delta between loads and chargers. For example **if charging at 100 watts with a 50 watt load, the reading will be 50 watts charging.** If you want to see the actual charging and load readings you will need to compare it to other data you have in your system, such as a solar charge controller, or use additional PwrTool 500s to separate loads and chargers. # Comparison Comparing comparable shunts - WIP These are all the direct market competitors to the PwrTool 500. | | PwrTool 500 | Victron SmartShunt 500 | Thornwave PowerMon | REDARC Smart Battery Monitor | LNEX AirShunt 500 | | ---------------------- | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | --------------------------------------------------------------------------- | --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ | | Current (Max/Const) | 500A/300A | 500A/300A | 500/? | 500/? | 500/? | | Voltage | 6-60v | 6.5-70v | up to 32v (v3.0) / 72v (v3.1) | 9-32v | 8-100v | | Polarity[^1] | Hot/Cold (Selectable[^2]) | Cold Only | Hot Only | Cold Only | Cold Only | | Wireless | Wifi + Bluetooth for provisioning | Bluetooth | Bluetooth | Bluetooth | Bluetooth | | User Interface | Home Assistant; built-in web server | Android/iOS App | Android/iOS App | Android/iOS App | APPS MISSING | | Expansion | I2C, SPI, UART, LED, GPIO | VE.direct (custom UART, documented) | Proprietary Bluetooth Touchscreen Only | R-Bus / CAN (Undocumented) | UART (Undocumented) | | Firmware | ESPHome(Default) or custom code via Arduino/ESP-IDF | Proprietary | Proprietary | Proprietary | Proprietary | | Hardware | ESP32-C3 + INA238 + SHTC3 | Proprietary | Proprietary | Proprietary | Proprietary | | Temperature | SHTC3 on front w/Humidity; Sense IC die temp facing shunt; External Optional | External Optional | External DS18B20 via proprietary connector | External on included B+ cable? | External Included | | External Voltage Sense | Optional via GPIO | Yes | Yes | No | Yes | | DC Power Conversion | 5V/2A (10w) Buck + 3.3V/1A Linear regulator | Internal only | Internal only | Internal only | Internal only | | Load Control | N-MOS up to 45w (TBD) with PWM control: Lighting, Relay, SSR, etc | No | MOSFET for external relay or SSR | with compatible external control system | No | | LEDs | On-board WS2182b with level-shifted output on GPIO; On-board red status light | Bluetooth; Error Status | None | Bluetooth Staus | Bluetooth; Warning Status | | Buttons | Boot (GPIO9) - Usable in Home Assistant; Reset; GPIO expandable | None | None | Bluetooth Control | None | | Documentation | Open source updateable wiki managed by VDBX.io | Manual, dimensional drawings, datasheet on website | Have to google for manual which is on external site, main website lacks clarity | Manual on website | No website or manual available | | Price - USD | $149 | $129 | $139 | $189 | $69 | | Vibe Check | Extensible & Hackable Open Hardware + 16-Bit ADC + Environment Sensor. Works with Home Assistant out of the box. | Industry standard but limited to proprietary app without external hardware. | The only hot-side shunt in this category. Another proprietary bluetooth app. Only compatible with Thornwave control system. | Marketed for overlanding with "rugged" design - only compatible with REDARC control system and a proprietary app. | DO NOT BUY - The app has vanished in 2023/24 and their website hasn't been around for years. Zero support but still on Amazon. | ## Software Screenshots

REDARC

[^1]: Polarity refers to wether the shunt body is placed on the Hot/High/Positive side of the battery or the Cold/Low/Negative/Ground side. The industry standard is Cold side meaning your shunt will be in line with ground, but sometimes this may cause issues. [^2]: Will come defaut to Cold mode, and can be set to Hot mode via a jumper. # PwrTop 18 The Smallest 18650 Battery Bank TODO: Photos, Diagrams, Files PwrTop 18 takes inspiration from existing "lipstick" style battery banks, but removes significant bulk by uniquely taking both positive and negative from a single side of the cell. In its most basic configuration, it only adds about 7mm of length to a standard 18650 cell. {% hint style="danger" %} For flat-top 18650 cells of Lithium Ion chemistry only - Charges to 4.2v at up to 3A / 2A selectable via solder jumper {% endhint %} {% hint style="warning" %} This device requires modification, removal, and/or replacement of the heat shrink wrap on your 18650 cells. Do not allow unwrapped cells to come in contact with other metals as to cause a short, especially the positive end which is surrounded by the case's ground connection. Use at your own risk. Don't put uncovered 18650s in your pocket. {% endhint %} ## Configurations There are currently two ways to attach the PwrTop 18 circuit board to an 18650 cell. We welcome you to [submit your own ideas](https://github.com/vdbxio/wiki/issues) to make this project as widely useful as possible. ### 3D Printed Cap

Two 18650s: One shows its wrap circumcised, the other has a PwrTop with 3D Printed Cap

The 3D printed cap adds a bit of thickness, but is the easiest way to get going and allows you to quickly switch out cells (depending on tolerance of print). The only modification needed is to circumcise your cell's wrap near the positive end. Use the crimped groove on this side to cleanly cut the wrap as if it's foil on a bottle of wine. Remove this little bit of plastic and any circular insulators it held in place. Assembly of the PwrTop 18 circuit board into the 3D print is a bit fiddly, but once placed, you can simply friction fit the assembly on your cell. A clockwise twisting motion may help properly seat it on tighter fitting cells. I don't want to condone a quick smack on the top, but it does work. [**3D Models >**](#id-3d-models) ### Re-wrap Method {% hint style="warning" %} Due to the heat produced by the PwrTop in operation, this method may soften and reduce the integrity of the heat shrink holding the PCB in place. We no longer recommend this method until we find a way to improve it. {% endhint %} This produces a more streamlined assembly but is still being tested. You will need an 18650 heat-shrink wrap in a color of your choice and a US dime, or something of similar thickness that is less than 18mm in-diameter. Optionally insulate the base with an 18mm sticker. Current Process: (Working) 1. Remove wrap and insulator from entire cell 2. Place new wrap around cell 3. Place dime or other spacer \~1-2mm on table - for clean bottom edge 1. Place cell and wrap on dime/spacer with Positive facing up. 2. Make sure wrap is touching table over dime 4. Place PwrTop PCB with terminals down on cell, inside wrap. 1. Hold down firmly with finger at USB port - LEDs should do a startup sequence 5. Using a lighter or a heat gun, start shrinking process at the top. If you need to turn to make it around, make sure to keep pressure on the top USB port. 1. Don't burn yourself 2. The side USB C port will be partially if not mostly covered, do not worry 6. Once top section is secure, you may continue shrink process on the bottom portion of cell 7. You may press a USB C connector into the side port to conform the wrap into and around the port. This will give you a good seam to cut the excess away. 1. Cutting too much will reduce the wrap's effectiveness to hold the assembly together. Leaving it may be a better option and will be better understood thru testing A 3D printed cover is in the works to make this method a little cleaner, but it needs tuning. ## Eratta & Known Issues The PwrTop 18 is being shown off at Teardown 2025 with over 200 units being given away to attendees for testing. Please note the following known quirks. 1. Does not work with Lightning (Apple) devices or any other devices that use the Fast Charge profile requiring D+ & D- to be shorted. 2. This device may get uncomfortably hot under heavy use 1. This may weaken the re-wrap method 2. Do not use cells if they also get unconfortably hot 3. Lower capacity and older cells may be better served by lowering the charging current 1. Remove 0 ohm resistor jumper from the 2A/3A selector and short the opposite set of pads ## Feedback Please submit issues and ideas as an [Issue on our wiki's Github.](https://github.com/vdbxio/wiki/issues) ## Accessories USB-C accessories for the PwrTop 18 will focus on compactness. Please share your ideas, 3D models, and PCB files on our [wiki's GitHub](https://github.com/vdbxio/wiki/issues). We will soon offer advice and specific parts (eg, short USB-C plugs) that will offer a starting point for your accessories. An initial concept for a flashlight accessory was designed alongside v1 and is currently being updated based on use of this accessory. ## Future While 18650s are the most popular and thus our first variant, we want to make more versions and would love your feedback. PwrTop 14 with a single port & a bit slower charging PwrTop 21/26 - More features, ports ???? ## Specs & Docs Designed for 18650 cells capable of up to 3A(2A Selectable) charge/discharge. 5v input/output split across 2 USB-C ports. Lithium-Ion only charges to 4.2v. Circuit board layouts and schematics were designed in EasyEDA Pro and will be offered in the spirit of Open Source upon the official retail release. ## 3D Models {% file src="/files/c5fwSmyLDOapmx73DUuD" %} 3D Printable Cap {% endfile %} {% file src="/files/jPuRPv3uK6hzzY7ZF2SA" %} 6x 3D Printable Holder {% endfile %} ## Changelog v2 - Add second port and re-arrange layout - more copper pours and vias for thermal dissipation. Select better spring contact. v1 - Original idea with single USB-C port. Tested both pogo-pins and smaller "antenna shrapnel" contacts. # Shift Deck 8-in-4 Home Assistant remote and modular switch panel system.

December 2023 design & functionality prototype and current features.

## Latest: 23.12.14 - Considering design changes to enclosure. Need documentation for PCB only kits. **231112** - Working prototype PCB in testing with nearly feature full MVP ESPHome build and blueprint to integrate into Home Assistant [![Open your Home Assistant instance and show the blueprint import dialog with a specific blueprint pre-filled.](https://my.home-assistant.io/badges/blueprint_import.svg)](https://my.home-assistant.io/redirect/blueprint_import/?blueprint_url=https%3A%2F%2Fraw.githubusercontent.com%2Fvdbxio%2Fesphome-configs%2Fmain%2Fblueprints%2Fbiswitch-blueprint.yaml) ## Summary A set of four (4) dual-throw momentary toggle switches in a modular wall enclosure and faceplate system. It is designed to work directly with our FLIP platform running ESPHome. It is connected via an I2C interface allowing it also to be daisy chained to itself to create larger switch panels. **SPDT (Single Pole Dual Throw)** - A dual throw switch has two distinct motions from its center. In a momentary version, it can toggle outward in two directions, for example up/down or left/right based on the physical orientation of the switch. The most common of these is a window switch in a car. Single pole refers to the fact that there is only one bank of connections being switched. While single pole switches may be optimal, dual or triple pole may be necessary due to availability. ## How to install 1. Power up: Use a USB-C cable or feed up to 60VDC to the spring terminals 2. Connect to the `Unnamed Switch Panel XXXXX` Wifi and enter your Wifi credentials when the prompt comes up. 3. Check Home Assistant for a new device notification or check the integrations page for the switch panel 4. Press configure and follow the steps 5. Download this Blueprint and configure [Help Me -→](/coming-soon-ish/flip-shift/installation) ## User Experience Dual-throw momentary toggle switches allow for a direct UX comparison to legacy house switches when moving to smart automation systems. Keeping the muscle memory of Up = On and Down = Off is important to a lot of us when much of the IOT landscape is trying to get us to learn new UX patterns. Spacing between switches was previously a concern, but no longer seems to be an issue. The first prototype has so far proven that spacing is more than adequate. ## Design & Manufacturing The required depth of the components created a unique opportunity to be bold in our design choices. The spacious cover plate is larger and almost floats on top of the housing which is recessed behind it. In a vacuum, its shape evokes a mid-century modern design aesthetic, though color and material choices could adapt it to any decor. The cover-plate design is easily manufacturable via 2D machining methods (laser, basic cnc) The housing is 3D printable with the possibility of injection molding with the right modifications. It could theoretically be bent sheet metal. ## Placement Originally intended to be mounted to a wall, it seems it may also work well on a desk as it stands up with little issue and could have power coming out the back. This changes some of the design work, but shouldn't be too big a deal. It was specifically designed so it could live anywhere but in a standard wall box. Blanking plates will eventually be available optionally with and without AC transformers for this possible use, but we encourage an open mind when considering placement. Get one of those outlets with USB ports and put the switch panel next to it with a[ slim USB cable.](#resources) ~~The rear of the housing is mostly open, but there are two areas that can be used for VHB or nano-style double-sided tape. Next to each one of those areas is a hole for screw mounting.~~ Back should be closed, but interior markings could show where to make holes for certain things like mounting screws or alternate cable passthrus - should have a default cable passthru for USB-C. When screw mounting, remove the cover-plate screws and mount the housing first, then re-attach the cover-plate and screws. ## Technical * Based on PCF8574 IO Expander * 8 Pins for switch 1-4 up/down * Up to 8 panels on same I2C bus via 3P DIP switch * Qwiic & Stemma QT compatible 4 pin headers for expansion * PT/Flip Module accepts USB-C or up to 60V DC * Great for RVs or off-grid! * Designed to be as compact as possible for custom designs ## Resources - Thin USB-A to C cables for placing next to an outlet with USB ports - Thin C to C cable *Affiliate links don't change your price, but give us a small percentage of sales.* # Installation Detailed Installation Instructions

Add a URL to import blueprint

Coming Soon TM # ESPHome Base software ## Specs * ESP32-C3 supports ESP-IDF platform * PCF8574 default address `0x20` * Four switches are presented as eight `binary-sensors` for single click actions. * ESPHome functions can present multi-click and hold ## Features * Two step process to base features in Home Assistant * Adopt in HA - joining Wifi should present a notification in HA - press the configure button and follow the steps * Download and setup blueprint \[link] to control your devices * Base binary sensors should be set as internal to run a text sensor as a state machine for each switch. Can be rewritten for vertical orientations or use select box as an if variable. * Up, Down * 2x Up, 2x Down * Up Hold, Down Hold ## Code
Base ``` // Some code ```
# Dimensions & Specs Baselining the geometry Early prototypes were very scattered, so here we rebase the geometry to build it parametrically. * Switches * On center - 18mm * Hole dia - 6mm + 0.2mm * LED Diffuser * X/Y/Z - 50/100/3mm * Radius - 20mm * Cover-plate * X/Y/Z - 60/110/3mm * Radius - 15mm * Screw spacing - 80.551 (fix) * Hardware x 2 * M3 or #6 thread-cutting * Hole Dia: 3mm + 0.2mm * Enclosure * Thickness * 1.2mm - Printed in PETG with a 0.6 nozzle presents excellent results that print super fast (13 mins), but the floppiness of the part could be concerning to people. * X/Y/Z - 50/100/ * Small Side Offset - * Radius - 20mm * Holes: * 3mm for coverplate - 2 * Drill marks for wall mounting - 2 * On center - # PicoFLIP C3 An extremely tiny LED controller based on ESP32-C3 with a mezzanine interconnect for GPIO > This project is about 4 years in the making. Shortly after I moved into my bus I installed a latching system for the passenger door. This was so that I could keep it stock in appearance, but remove the chunky lever linkage that could only be opened from the driver side. I have since been using a simple 433mhz key fob and relay attached to an ESPHome node to have easy access through my front door. Unfortunately the keyfob is likely a security risk for myself personally so I've been wanting something more closely in line with the technology I'm using elsewhere in my bus. {% hint style="info" %} {% endhint %} This project is about 4 years in the making. Shortly after I moved into my bus # Open Manufacturing A set of tools to help makers package various parts As a maker/designer/artist type person who designs products for manufacturing, there is a lot of labor lost to packaging parts when starting out on a small scale. Many people may be able to package 200 units which consists of 1-30 parts by hand, but as an ADHD brained person I just can't. I just daydream about automation and it breaks my flow. So I started working on it and as VDBX grows, I hope to continue documenting my findings. I've found that this is an excellent application for the FLIP\_C3 since we usually have a higher root voltage. ### Active prototypes and other dev work * An adjustable, multi port USB-C jig with panel ejector system. * Heavy modifications to commonly available *screw presenters* * Pin header dispensing or length cutting from bulk * Bagging and sealing * Dispensing and sorting * guitar picks, allen keys, screws, boards, etc * Low cost printing for value-add packaging # ESPHome Configs These are various configs I've used, but are in no way complete or bug free. Use at your own risk. ## GPS ```yaml # Declare GPS module gps: update_interval: 1s latitude: name: "Latitude" longitude: name: "Longitude" altitude: name: "Altitude" speed: name: "Speed" course: name: "Course" satellites: name: "Satellites" # GPS as time source time: - platform: gps id: gps_time sensor: - platform: hmc5883l field_strength_x: name: "HMC5883L Field Strength X" field_strength_y: name: "HMC5883L Field Strength Y" field_strength_z: name: "HMC5883L Field Strength Z" heading: name: "HMC5883L Heading" oversampling: 1x range: 130uT update_interval: 60s ``` ## Relay Set ```yaml switch: - platform: gpio name: "TV" restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF pin: pcf8574: pcf8574_hub number: 0 mode: OUTPUT inverted: true - platform: gpio name: "Relay 1" pin: pcf8574: pcf8574_hub number: 1 mode: OUTPUT inverted: true - platform: gpio name: "Relay 2" pin: pcf8574: pcf8574_hub number: 2 mode: OUTPUT inverted: true - platform: gpio name: "Relay 3" pin: pcf8574: pcf8574_hub number: 3 mode: OUTPUT inverted: true - platform: gpio name: "Relay 4" pin: pcf8574: pcf8574_hub number: 4 mode: OUTPUT inverted: true - platform: gpio name: "Relay 5" pin: pcf8574: pcf8574_hub number: 5 mode: OUTPUT inverted: true - platform: gpio name: "Relay 6" pin: pcf8574: pcf8574_hub number: 6 mode: OUTPUT inverted: true - platform: gpio name: "Relay 7" restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF pin: pcf8574: pcf8574_hub number: 7 mode: OUTPUT inverted: false ``` ## Grow Fingerprint ````yaml ```esphome text_sensor: - platform: template name: "Fingerprint State" id: fingerprint_state update_interval: never uart: rx_pin: 20 tx_pin: 21 baud_rate: 57600 sensor: - platform: fingerprint_grow fingerprint_count: name: "Fingerprint Count" last_finger_id: name: "Fingerprint Last Finger ID" last_confidence: name: "Fingerprint Last Confidence" status: name: "Fingerprint Status" capacity: name: "Fingerprint Capacity" security_level: name: "Fingerprint Security Level" fingerprint_grow: sensing_pin: 1 on_finger_scan_matched: - fingerprint_grow.aura_led_control: state: BREATHING speed: 200 color: BLUE count: 1 - text_sensor.template.publish: id: fingerprint_state state: !lambda 'return "Authorized finger " + to_string(finger_id) + ", confidence " + to_string(confidence);' - homeassistant.event: event: esphome.test_node_finger_scan_matched data: finger_id: !lambda 'return finger_id;' confidence: !lambda 'return confidence;' on_finger_scan_unmatched: - fingerprint_grow.aura_led_control: state: FLASHING speed: 25 color: RED count: 2 - text_sensor.template.publish: id: fingerprint_state state: "Unauthorized finger" - homeassistant.event: event: esphome.test_node_finger_scan_unmatched on_enrollment_scan: - fingerprint_grow.aura_led_control: state: FLASHING speed: 25 color: BLUE count: 2 - fingerprint_grow.aura_led_control: state: ALWAYS_ON speed: 0 color: PURPLE count: 0 - homeassistant.event: event: esphome.test_node_enrollment_scan data: finger_id: !lambda 'return finger_id;' scan_num: !lambda 'return scan_num;' on_enrollment_done: - fingerprint_grow.aura_led_control: state: BREATHING speed: 100 color: BLUE count: 2 - homeassistant.event: event: esphome.test_node_enrollment_done data: finger_id: !lambda 'return finger_id;' on_enrollment_failed: - fingerprint_grow.aura_led_control: state: FLASHING speed: 25 color: RED count: 4 - homeassistant.event: event: esphome.test_node_enrollment_failed data: finger_id: !lambda 'return finger_id;' ``` ```` # IOByte A modern take on a timeless I2C IO expander {% hint style="danger" %} **v1.2** has a slight oversight having to do with the chip we tested vs the one we went to production with - **All address jumpers must be set ON or OFF** - leaving the address unset will inhibit functionality. {% endhint %} ## Summary The goal of the IOByte is to create a better breakout for the PCF8574 GPIO Extender mostly focused on quickly deploying relays and switch panels via i2c. The initial idea behind the PCB design was based on having it fit directly on a common 8-Channel relay board. Existing breakouts generally would require 10 DuPont leads (or other wire interface) to the relay board. Solder on a 10p female header, connect I2C and you have a super fast and cheap deployment.
The IOByte can also act as a binary input device. The ground row of pins makes it easy to deploy simple switches connected from and of the 8 open-drain pins to ground. Quickly deploy switch panels with your favorite hardware. ## v1.2 Notes Previous versions were tested with PCF8574 chips from TI, which don't seem to care if they start-up with the address pins floating. This run was assembled with chips from HGSEMI via JLCPCB and further tested with XINLUDA chips which are also angsty about floating address pins. I recently noticed Adafruit's module uses a 10k resistor array to pull all address pins to ground with a set of solder jumpers to pull them high. I am also warming up to the Qwiic/Stemmma QT connectors they use. Next version should use them. It seemed there may have been an issue with the 1k pull-ups on the SCL & SDA, but that might have been a red-herring and was instead the above issue with floating address pins. Despite this, future versions should switch to 4.7k - 10k as research has stated it to a better option. The retail versions I have use 1k with an HLF chip. These seem to be unaffected by floating address pins. ## Changelog v1.2 - Production run * **Make sure address pins are NOT floating!** * *next version to force default address* * Removed VCC Header Row * Re-Aligned GND Header Row to allow for a VCC/GND 2P Dupont connection * Previously known as Pin Saver 8 v1.1 - Attempt to add features for making input hookups easier * Added GND and VCC header rails parallel to original output header * Reduce spacing for address jumper footprint * [x] ~~TODO: Determine if this is acceptable~~ * Purchased stencil with order to test production runs * [x] ~~TODO: Test stencil - remove address jumper openings?~~ v1.0 - Original prototype was designed to fit directly on the headers of a commonly available 8-channel relay board. * Passthrough i2c headers on opposing sides of the board * Address jumpers were a bit too widely spaced to solder easily # Specs & Files All off - Default address `0x20` ## Pinout

v1.2 Pinout

## Design Files This project was designed in EasyEDA Standard and Pro. It is available to fork via oshwlab.com # Hactus The Hacker's Cactus {% hint style="warning" %} We no-longer have the resources for concrete production, but still have Hactus PCB sets for sale. A 3MF and STL file are provided for you to print the pots yourself. You can also place the Hactus in the ground next to your real plants!!! {% endhint %} {% file src="/files/KShneQK8W9QyuVaYtAkn" %} 3MF file to 3D print the Hactus pot. {% endfile %} {% file src="/files/FDRLbvLcS7xrsEt9HI6g" %} STL file to 3D print the Hactus pot. {% endfile %} ## Summary The Hactus is a manufacturable and functional art piece by Chloe Madison (@clomads) that embodies the visual of a cactus succulent using two interlocking PCB 'perfboards.' It also includes a flower pot intended for casting in concrete. ## Design Files ### PCB Files @ EasyEDA / OSHWLAB ### 3D Model in Fusion 360 For flower pot + mold box + mold insert PCB reference (not actual board specs) - the through-holes can be a performance killer {% file src="/files/HrLER0uNHDE9t0Hxc2EG" %}

The Hactus on a white background.

# PWM Lighting Adapter 4x N-Channel MOSFETs designed to fit on common PCA9685 modules ## Overview An extremely simple test of using a commonly available PCA9685 module to modulate low-power LEDs like DC puck lights. Each module has 4 N-channel MOSFETs rated at a max power dissipation of 7w and were chosen without much knowledge of how to choose MOSFETs. A handful of these have been in service for over a year without issue, but only seem to be useful for puck lights and short LED strips. Much more capable MOSFETs are available in a similar package size. This is likely a stepping stone to better design. It answered a lot of questions while in use. ## Problems The intent of these boards were to improve ease of deployment, but there are several issues with this design. * Output is intended for 2.54mm 1x2P pin headers requires crimping dupont connectors if they aren't already installed or wiring needs to be extended. * Lesson: Don't design to what's on hand - re-ordering the same thing presented a different connector. * Soldering the board was a pain * The last pin header was oriented at a right angle to the rest requiring a separate 2p header * Was originally designed for individual sets of 2p headers for some reason * The 4P female headers were also hard to solder due to diving board effects. * Screw terminals suck in general - always use spring connectors moving forward. * Mounting wasn't taken into account * A DIN Rail adapter was designed for the PCA9685 board, but it was only implemented in one deployment. * Cable management wasn't taken into account * Eventually using right angle pin headers helped with this, but still a PITA * Silkscreen wasn't clear about polarity * Constantly checking other boards or docs when changes are made ## Design Files This project was made in EasyEDA and will be available via OSHWLab TODO: Links # USB-BD v1.4 Quickly get 5v from those old Micro-USB cables you have lying around. {% hint style="info" %} A Type-C variant is on its way, so let us know what you'd like to see! {% endhint %} ## Summary A handy Micro-USB power and data breakout designed for breadboards, but useful in all kinds of projects. Put that drawer full of micro USB cables to good use. ![Features & Pin-Out Overview](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/vdbxio/USB-BD/master/git-docs-features-dark.png) ## Overview The USB-BD breaks out the Micro-USB 5v vbus and data pair to standard pin headers on a 2.54mm/0.1" pitch grid. The pin headers are on opposite sides of the Micro-USB port for stability and strength when in used on a breadboard. A slide switch is optionally used to switch both 5v+ terminals simultaneously, otherwise solder the PWR jumper on the bottom to bypass the need for a switch and give yourself current capability boost. `The switches are limited in that they are technically only rated for 200mA. We have seen them work at higher currents, but for how long? We are still testing.` `The 5v rail requires the switch or the PWR jumper to be soldered in order to get it to the two 5v+ connections.` If you require the data pins in conjunction with a breadboard, we suggest not using the 5v pair next to it, but the 5v pair on the other side, next to the switch, is still useable. In this configuration the USB-BD can be placed across the center break of the breadboard giving you Data + & - on one side and 5v + & - on the other. The OTG solder jumper on the bottom pulls the ID pin to ground. It is there for your development needs. Have fun. ## Manufacturing We currently have JLCPCB manufacture the USB-BD v1.4 with packing and logistics handled in California. They are currently being sold in 5-packs on Tindie with free shipping in the USA and are working to get them back on Amazon. Previous versions were pick & placed by hand with a significant error rate. ## Background By: Chloe Madison (@clomads) I've always found myself doing electronics projects that require 5v... and specifically 5v from USB. It's always been a pain to get 5v from a USB port... the 5 pin breakouts from AliExpress and other sources are usually junk and you still have to wire back up to your power rails. The power supplies I've seen on Amazon and AliExpress are usually some large monstrosity that bridges the two paralell sides of the breadboard (why?) and require a barrel jack connector at some weird voltage.... again... why? If you're like me, you have a million Micro-USB cables laying around and the power bricks to go with them. Let's use them for making stuff. Since creating v1 back in 2018, I've used these all over the place to bypass alkaline batteries, power micro-controllers, and even partially replace the guts of a broken USB fan .... a neat tool to make even cooler things and I hope you find it as useful as I have. USB-BD doesn't actually mean anything. It was a silly name an ex called them when I was first designing them. Pronounced "US Bibbity" I also call them "BBDs" for short. ## Design Files The USB-BD was developed in EasyEDA Pro. The project file includes both the v1.1 & v1.4 board designs and is importable in KiCAD {% file src="/files/5kqu7tFzssmpUOSof0zU" %} ### TODO * Add exports to repo for backup and/or conversion to other formats. * More usage diagrams * update OSHWA info schema ## Version history 2023.2 (v1.4) - Swap push switch for slider switch, swap data JST2.0 for 2.54mm pin header, PWR jumper on bottom, JLCPCB v2.0 Prototype - Jan 2020 - Major redesign - Two position Micro-USB footprint, Nix JST for aligned 2.54mm pins for data, Simpler switch v1.0a/v1.1 - Changed footprint to LCSC USB port and made slight modifications to the silk layer. v1.0 - Initial release - First batch with short horn USB port from AliExpress ## Changelog March 2023 * Finalize updated README * Finalize package label design * Design flat feature diagram Feb 2023 * Design and submit production order * Recieve order and begin testing * Packaging and documentation design work start Jan 2023 * Posted final v1.1 stock to Tindie and updated resources. * Started research on v1.4 changes and JLCPCB assembly pricing * Pushing off v2.0 version with dual position port * Keep switch replacement and new data alignment [![I sell on Tindie](https://d2ss6ovg47m0r5.cloudfront.net/badges/tindie-smalls.png)](https://www.tindie.com/stores/vdbxio/?ref=offsite_badges\&utm_source=sellers_clomads\&utm_medium=badges\&utm_campaign=badge_small) # Super-Ultra Low-Profile USB 2.0 Header For Motherboards {% hint style="warning" %} These are no longer in production. {% endhint %} ## Summary A USB header for PC motherboards designed to be as minimal as possible. It may interfere with components on some motherboards. Its intended use is for keeping small flash-drives, wireless controllers, or USB license keys inside a computer enclosure. It can also be a powerful tool for computer techs who can keep two USB tools together such as a diagnostics OS on flash drive alongside a wireless keyboard/mouse receiver. My personal use case is in a custom built super slim NAS enclosure that runs UnRAID. My OS is on a tiny flash drive and the second slot holds a 2.4ghz receiver for a thumb keyboard/trackpad thing. All current offerings I could find were too tall for my needs or were a wired assembly, this is much cleaner. ## ROADMAP 2018.11.28 - Version 2.0 of the Super-Ultra Low-Profile USB Header will be designed for improved manufacturability and reliability of source components. V1.0 used a 2x5p through-hole header that was difficult to solder in this configuration. Main change will be to replace the through-hole 2x5p with an SMD version that allows for a reduction of about 1mm of height and no need to solder under USB ports. A new source will be found for the USB ports if possible. Things to note: The SMD headers will allow the pins from the motherboard to potentially go through the header and rest in a through-hole on the board, stopped only by the USB port on the other side. How far the pins go into the header (and subsequently the PCB) is determined by pin length and the height of the header. Datasheet for a current working part suggests a 7.5mm standoff from the board. Considering a standard header pin is about 6mm, we already have 1.5mm extra space. Add in the board thickness of 1.6mm and we can theoretically look for SMD passthrough headers with a height of 4.4mm!!!!!!! Current working BOM ## Releases 2018.11.28 - Freeze V1 - see release notes ## Build of Materials * Vertically Aligned Double USB-A Socket (Shortest Possible) - Avalable on AliExpress * 2x5 Socket Header 2.54mm Spacing - Avalable on AliExpress * VDBX.io ULPUH PCB - * Black Silicone (Optional) - Available on Amazon or your local hardware store TODO: Links ## Assembly You will need to shorten the leads on the 2x5 Socket Header so the USB Socket will fit flush on the other side. This can be done with snips, but I find it best to sand the pins down with a disc sander and low grit sandpaper (60/80). You will likely mess up a few at first with either method but the goal is to get the pins to be slightly shorter than the board is thick. Solder the header on making sure its solder joints are secure and as flush as possible on the top. Solder the USB-A Socket on and clean up its connections. Use snips if necessary. Fill the alignment pin socket with silicone and let it cure. Use it - PLug it into the USB 2.0 header on any\* motherboard. * I have not tested this on every motherboard but I assume it should fit most. On mine, it blocks a portion of the F\_Audio header which may prove difficult if I choose to use it, though there is plenty of clearance to prevent a short. TODO: Embed photo of it on my motherboard. Licensed CC-BY-SA 4.0 # CSR8635 Adapter *** ### description: A breakout board for a CSR8635 development module with pin labels. ## CSR8635 Adapter {% hint style="info" %} The following is just a replication of the Tindie listing. {% endhint %} Note: There are three main variants of these boards with different pin layouts: 1. Commonly listed as BTM-835B - this board has pins on all sides and requires an external antenna. It is generally a board with blue solder mask. 2. Commonly listed as BTM835 - this board generally has it's chip angled at 45° and has an equal amount of pins on both of the long sides. This one generally has a blue solder mask. 3. **Commonly listed as BC8635 -** Usually has green solder mask and the two long sides have 14 and 15 pins respectively. {% hint style="warning" %} TODO: Add picture of modules for comparison {% endhint %} AliExpress is my go-to for procuring them. Here are links to a couple: ### **Why did you make it?** I am working on building a Bluetooth audio headset but didn't realize how small the pins on these modules are. For prototyping my device, I wanted to be able to use this board on a breadboard and have a visual reference to the pinouts. ### **What makes it special?** These Bluetooth audio boards are super cheap and I'd love to see more people able to prototype with them. Look out for my headset project coming in a couple months. ### Design Files Available on OSHW Lab for EasyEDA # Concrete Card Holder with Magnet & Steel Ball ## Summary A business card holder designed by Chloe Madison (@clomads) as she was exploring concrete as a medium. It began as a 3D model that was 3D printed, molded, and then cast in concrete. It features a steel ball that interfaces with an embedded magnet to keep cards in place. It was sold via Chloe Madison's Etsy store and then under the Voidbox brand on Amazon through FBA. We no longer have the facilities to manufacture these, but hope to someday in the future. ## Source Overview 1. Parametric design source in Fusion 360 format - for making modifications 2. STL file of final design mesh - for 3D printing 3. Choosing filament and pre-processing for molding. 4. Molding process 5. Pourinig concrete 6. Finishing process 7. Materials ## Fusion 360 Parametric 3D Model The Fusion 360 file is the original source design from Chloe Madison (@clomads). Parametric design allows you to see how it was made and make prefered changes along the way. If you just want to 3D print the model, read the next section. Also included in this file is a box for mold making and a sphere for reference. A reference to the magnet in the production model is not made in this file, but should be assumed to be at the back of the cylindrical cavity. ## STL Mesh for 3D Printing {% hint style="info" %} TODO: Upload STL and post to Thingiverse & Printables {% endhint %} You can get various versions from the a360 link above for now. Don't print the ball unless you really want to, it's really just for reference. Download this file if you just want to download and make the thing as it was designed. This requires a 3D printer and knowledge of slicing programs. You're more than welcome to stop at a 3D printed version. We have a couple ourselves, but if you want to know more about how to make it out of concrete, read on. ## Choosing filament and sanding prints Before printing the 3D model you should consider that you'll likely have to sand it for the molding process. This is mainly because 3D Printing, especially FDM (most common), is an imperfect process and those imperfections should be removed before making a mold from your 3D Printed part. In our experience this means printing in ABS. While a fine layer height of 0.1mm is a nice to have, you can get away with 0.2mm no problem. The most important thing to consider is wall thickness as you may end up breaking through to infill when sanding if you don't have enough layers. There is a lot of information on the internet about finishing parts. Choose the method that you feel most comfortable with or have access to. I personally like using super glue to fill in large gaps. While sanding the 3D print is highly reccomended, it may not be necessary if you're making only one or two. Your goal is to make the mold as smooth as possible so sand the print and then fill any gaps with super glues and sand some more. You'll likely also end up sanding the final concrete part too, so it's up to you where you want to spend your time. ## Molding process We reccomend Mold-Star 15 Slow Platinum Silicone mold from Smooth-On, but everyone has their preferences. Make sure you have a container that can hold the liquid around your 3D print while it cures. Mix Part A & Part B thouroughly and pour carefully over your part. Make sure to reference the documents of your mold material to make sure you're doing the thing right. When the mold is cured (usually no longer that 24 hours) take your container apart and carefully remove the 3D print from the mold. You may have to use a hobby knife to clean up some areas. I highly suggest googling or youtubeing mold making to help with your process on this step. ## Pouring Concrete Choosing your cement mix appropriately is important if you want to obtain a specific look. We've played around with various mixes and have landed on a not-scientifically-measured mix of Portland Cement, Glass Fiber Fill, and cement plasticiser. This mix gives us a smooth finish after sanding and the fiber fill creates strength and can many times be seen in the final finish as a 'whispy' design within the concrete. The Plasticiser reduces water consumption by the cement, therefore increasing strength, though this is meant to be a functional art piece and I'm going for style over durability. An interesting occurance of this mix is sometimes the appearance of spiderweb like micro-fractures across the entire surface of the object. This doesn't appear to be a detriment to the strength of the object as a whole. Additional options for concrete mix include adding sand or stone aggregates which will significantly increase strength. Though, they do give the final product a much more rough surface that can still be sanded, but will kill all your sandpaper and have sex with its mother. In all honesty though, you will reduce your ability to efficiently use sandpaper on concrete items with sand in their mix and will likely have to move to some sort of grinding wheel if you've added gravel... you will literally be cutting through rock. I am about to start experimenting with diamond grinding pads which are easily available on Amazon. Let us know what your favorite concrete mix is! ## Finishing Concrete This section assumes you've decided to use our mix above of Cement, Glass Fiber, and Plasticiser. We sand the outside surfaces with a random orbit sander at 60 grit to cut the 'skin', 220 to smooth it out, and 400 polishes it. The inside flat surfaces go through a similar grit cadence, but with an oscilating tool and triangular diamond pads. The cylindrical cavity for the ball is the hardest to sand. We're still looking for a good mechanical means to do this and have recently settled on a 1-inch dowel or pipe with sand paper around it and going at it by hand. Feel free to direct any questions about technique, etc. to the issues tab on GitHub. # Handy Jr. A concrete and bendy arm helping hands.

A late 2019 promotional image for the Handy Jr.

{% hint style="info" %} Handy Jr. was almost production ready in 2020 and was close to launch when COVID hit. We have indefinitely shifted focus away from concrete production and no longer have access to facilities to produce these items. This could change in the future and is a want, just not a current or near future priority. {% endhint %} ## Summary The Handy family of products is a pair of helping hands stands made from concrete with embedded thin-bodied goosenecks. **Handy Jr.** is the base of the production idea, consisting of a round base of concrete with a neoprene protective layer as its interface to the table it rests upon. Three goosenecks are spaced evenly around the circumference and at their tip are replaceable alligator clips. **Handy Sr.** was conceptually supposed to be a larger variant of the Handy Jr. but was never formalized with a design. An unofficial very early prototype is still owned by Chloe(@clomads) - it has the same 3 goosenecks and a void in the center for a brass sponge. The thought over the years was to add a fourth gooseneck and a soldering iron holder. Considering the alligator clips are replaceable, other tools could be added to these arms: Magnifying glass, light, fume filter fan... etc. ## History The original mold for the Handy Jr. before it got its name was the silicone skin of an Ikea Spoka nightlight... a rechargeable children's nightlight shaped like a ghost... there were 4 different designs and I used the short and wide one that had a green light. It was the idea that got Chloe Madison (@clomads) into production level manufacturing with concrete. She sold a handful of these through her Etsy store and at tabling events under her persona brand before founding the VDBX.io brand. Chloe has a short YouTube video showcasing the early Handy Jr. and the thought process to scale up to a proto Handy Sr with no arms. {% embed url="" %} 2017/5/4 - Very early prototyping with concrete molds featuring the Handy family before they were the Handy family {% endembed %} ## Main Production Issues With the advantage of 3 years of hindsight, I may have overcompensated for a specific tolerance issue that made high yield production of the Handy Jr. nearly impossible. Early designs had a flat bottom that was poured upside-down - the flat bottom being the opening of a single piece mold. This usually doesn't come out perfectly flat, so it would be sanded with a random orbit sander before attaching a laser-cut neoprene base layer. Unfortunately the laser cuts were perfect, but the diameter of the bottom of the Handy Jr. wouldn't always be the same. It wasn't good. The solution at the time was to attempt a fully encased two-part mold with a slight lip around the neoprene. This obviously created significantly more problems and was one of the reasons it took nearly two more years to hit a possible release. COVID had other ideas at that point though. If I ever plan to do a production run again I would go back to a single sided mold with a flat bottom, but add a thick chamfer around the interface and size down the neoprene bottoms. In theory, just adding a chamfer should attack the issue two-fold: 1. There would be more visual reference to the concrete diameter in post-processing 2. Adds some visual interest to the interface between the curve and the neoprene, possibly distracting from any imperfections. ## Other Production Issues * Bubbles in high spot of two-part mold (described above) * At some point casting the goosenecks directly in the concrete anealed (correct word?) the gooseneck's metal near the interface with the concrete. This turned the bottom 10-20mm of the gooseneck into a spring. * After this was noticed, we created voids with silicone tubing in place of the goosenecks with the intent to JB weld the goosenecks in place durring post-processing * Do not keep unfinished "pucks" around for too long(undefined) - the curing process will shrink the gooseneck voids to the point of no return - drilling will create visual imperfections. ## Build of Materials The goosenecks are sourced from AliExpress as USB 2.0 extensions and cut with a bolt cutter or friction chop saw. We were in the process of finding a source that didn't require processing. Alligator clips can be sourced almost anywhere, but be sure to find ones that are large enough to mostly go around the Gooseneck. The retention device for the alligator clips are drill depth gauges with set screws. 1/8" & 1/16" Adhesive-backed Neoprene Rubber was sourced from Amazon in rolls. Many listing claiming to be neoprene are actually eva foam which will degrade very quickly. You may have to trial and error. ## Design files The Handy Jr. was designed in Fusion 360, but is not parametric and is more of a stream of consciousness design. It contains a lot of undocumented items for various rabbit holes that were gone down through the years of attempting to bring it to market. One thing of note is a couple support pieces and a mold box that is intended to print in vase mode. {% file src="/files/x3jfAgFavwK8et6Qf8Jr" %} Last edited in March of 2020 - exported for open-source in March 2023 {% endfile %} ## Future The future is in question for all of Voidbox and Chloe's concrete work. We hope that as Voidbox grows, we can again have the facilities to do this work and revisit the projects that we love so dearly. ## Name Yes, there is significant inuendo intended in the name. But it come from the fact that I was very amused by the fact that the colloquial term for a cellphone in germany is 'handy' - Jr/Sr. naming was easy, but came from Pixar's Luxo Jr. lamp as I had made a one-off lamp with these goosenecks. Again, sorry for the tense change. # Aura Qi A 5w Qi charging pad encased mostly in concrete with a lasered wood veneer top. ## Summary The iPhone 8 added Qi charging and we tried to capitalize on this with a concrete and wood charging pad to fit amongst our existing product line. One working prototype was produced and significant time was put into researching large scale manufacturing and parts sourcing. Production funds were unable to be secured. ## Exploded View
# M12 Drill/Driver Friction Fit Holder ![](/files/uFJGMMSJRURE312sZJPc) ## Summary A parametric design intended to keep the non-Fuel drill/driver combo held in place during travel in an RV. It should be a one-handed remove and work under-desk or on wall. ## Parametric The Fusion 360 file was built with a single [User Parameter](#user-content-fn-1)[^1]:`innerDia` which is the inner diameter of the main cylindrical shape. The rest of the design should generate from there for most reasonable and possibly unreasonable values of `innerDia`. The following are parameters used for the tools I own: * 2462-20 Driver - `55mm` * Printed nicely with PETG - tight friction fit * 2407-20 Drill - `60mm` * Printing ## Mesh Files for Slicing {% file src="/files/2WIEiqtxaJC8bcuOT0uB" %} 3MF File for 2462-20 M12 Driver {% endfile %} {% file src="/files/ohManl3HuYNqZ0BKmGGk" %} STL File for 2462-20 M12 Driver {% endfile %} [^1]: User Parameters in Fusion 360 are variables that are able to be set by the user to change parameters of the design. You can edit them by being in the Design workspace and opening the Modify menu. At the bottom of that menu is the option "Change Parameters" and clicking it will present a new dialog with a grid of any available user parameters. # More Coming Soon We make a lot of 3D printable models with the intent of sharing them freely. The latter is hard because of ADHD so things are generally behind here. We're working on it. There are a few on Printables for now: {% embed url="" %} ## User Parameters in Fusion 360 We have been trying lately to design models that have a more wide use case and in doing so we've been building our models via parameters so that they can generate properly in different sizes or for variants of the thing it's for. For example: a drill holder is designed relative to an inner diameter that is relevant to a measurement from the drill itself. Providing a spot to specifically to change that inner diameter value allows me to adapt it the design for it's sister driver or you to adapt it to your version of the tool. When the F3D files are available and user parameters are used, you can open the "Modify" menu while in the Design workspace to see "Change Parameters" near the bottom. Clicking it will show a table of User Parameters that you can change by clicking the value and modifying it. You should see the design change in real time in the background after values are entered.